Teufelsberg: Berlin's Spy Hub Turned Street Art Gallery
- JR Journeys
- Jun 29
- 11 min read
World War II ruins, a Cold War spy station, and a graffiti street art gallery all in one spot? That qualifies as an absolute must-visit destination in my book! While many tourists don’t even know that this place exists, it was my favorite activity during my visit to Berlin, Germany. Here’s everything you need to know about Teufelsberg:
History Of Teufelsberg
Before it became a nearly 400-foot high summit, Teufelsberg (which translates to “Devil’s Mountain”) was part of the Grunewald Forest that envelops much of West Berlin. In 1937, German Führer Adolf Hitler ordered a complex to be constructed at the site to serve as a Nazi military education and research center under the Berlin Institute of Technology. By 1940, the exterior of the structure had been completed, but the German Wehrmacht's need for more resources as they fought deeper into World War II brought the project to a halt.
After the Allies’ success in the Battle of Berlin and the capitulation of the Nazi regime in 1945, the effort to rebuild Germany’s capital began. With the military education and research building remaining unfinished but largely undamaged, it was selected as a deposit site for rubble from Berlin’s destroyed streets and buildings. Over the next 22 years, an astounding 918 million cubic feet (26 million cubic meters) of debris was brought to the site, forming a mound nearly 40 stories tall (about 394 feet / 120 meters). To make the space usable again, the rubble was covered with dirt, then grass and shrubbery were planted on top.
In the early 1960s, the American and British forces occupying territory in West Berlin began using Teufelsberg for military purposes. By 1972, the Americans had turned Teufelsberg into a listening station, having already constructed the iconic radomes that still hover above the dilapidated buildings today. The U.S. National Security Agency considered this to be one of their most important information gathering/spying locations because they could pick up communications from the Eastern Bloc, as Berlin sat on the Soviet side of the Iron Curtain. Despite the American spy equipment nearby, Teufelsberg also functioned as a ski hill for a period of time, and even hosted a 1986 Ski World Cup race.
With the Berlin Wall’s fall and the USSR’s collapse leading to the end of the Cold War, Teufelsberg ceased operating as a listening hub in 1992. It became abandoned, which allowed the first artists to move in and start using the property as a canvas for their alternative graffiti-style pieces.
In 1996, Teufelsberg was purchased by investors hoping to build high-end apartments and a hotel on the land. These plans fell through, and the defunct Cold War-era buildings remained standing, becoming an increasingly popular spot for artists to spray paint. In 2016, their artwork became a unique attraction, as Teufelsberg officially opened to the public for viewing. In 2018, the site became protected by the State Monument Authority of Berlin. Today, it’s an astounding street art gallery that allows for creative and open expression.
In recent years, Teufelsberg has made its way into mainstream media. Gamers might recognize it from Call of Duty: Black Ops Cold War’s map “Echelon”. The monologue compilation film Manifesto, starring Cate Blanchett, shot one of its scenes at Teufelsberg, as did The Girl in the Spider’s Web. In TV, Berlin Station and The Amazing Race had parts of their shows shot there, and in music, Bob Mould’s “Lost Faith” and The Faim’s “A Million Stars” filmed music video content onsite.
Sights and Experiences at Teufelsberg
The Artwork
As someone who is not particularly interested in art, I was initially skeptical of how engaged I would be at Teufelsberg. However, it quickly became the highlight of my visit to Berlin – this place feels so raw and authentic, which isn’t always easy to come by in European cities that excel at marketing and selling to tourists. The variety of the graffiti art is incredible; everything from animals to cartoons to people to cityscapes are clustered together across the property in random order, making every wall an exciting surprise just waiting to be seen. Furthermore, the sizes of Teufelsberg’s artwork are sensational. Many of the murals are meticulously detailed on 3-story high walls, with 10-foot long strands of hair appearing to jump off the concrete and flutter in the breeze, vibrant colors juxtaposing each other, and complex fonts spelling out creative messages relating to the adjacent images. It’s a scale and depth that I feel pieces in traditional art museums seldom reach.
Additionally, I found the messaging behind much of the artwork at Teufelsberg to be much more relatable and meaningful than at a fine art museum. The street artists commonly express their feelings about the state of society through their work, which offers an interesting insight into the variety of ways that people interpret the world around them. For example, a variety of pieces displayed heartfelt representations of emotions such as love or sadness, while others made political statements and voiced pointed opinions about world leaders. Different works shared symbols and phrases designed to promote positive change, such as the importance of protecting the planet.
On the flipside, other works seemingly had no meaning and appeared closer to something that would be inspired by a hallucinogenic trip. Regardless, I was blown away by the sheer talent and dedication behind each mural. Between Teufelsberg and the Berlin Wall, Germany’s capital became the first place that I genuinely found myself enjoying examining artwork and seeking out more of it.
(Side note: if you’re visiting with kids, be aware that some pieces of art have swear words and/or depict controversial/taboo topics.)
The Buildings
One of the coolest parts of Teufelsberg is that the buildings which were once used by U.S. troops to listen in on Eastern Bloc communications are now open to walk around, including the roofs. The interiors of the structures, which is where I think some of the most impressive art pieces are, have concrete slabs set up to act as additional mural space. Wander through each floor of these buildings before heading up the stairs to the radomes, which have been ripped open, allowing you to step inside. While you’re on the roof, take a look around. Not only can you see the Berlin skyline, Olympicpark Berlin, and the surrounding forest, but you’ll also find artwork hidden on rooftops that you wouldn’t otherwise be able to spot, as well as shapes and symbols cut into the grass below that require a bird’s eye view to make out. Teufelsberg is full of secrets that are only discovered by curious individuals with keen eyes – everywhere on the property is a space for the artists to display their work, so take your time and look at every surface around you!
Teufelsberg’s Forest
The landscape surrounding the buildings isn’t empty forest – it’s packed with quirky sculptures and otherwise landfill-bound items that have been turned into art pieces. Almost no one was exploring these trails while I was there, and having the woods to myself was both peaceful and slightly unsettling as I looked at battered mannequins and clambered up a massive throne made of rickety wooden pallets.
I recommend spending about 30 minutes seeing the non-painted art pieces in the woods and at least 90 minutes exploring the murals on both the inside and outside of the buildings as you work your way up to the top to check out the radomes.
Onsite Museums
In August 2024, the museum “Allies in Berlin” was re-opened at Teufelsberg. It has been curated to explore what post-World War II Berlin was like, with the American, British, and French controlling parts of West Berlin and the Soviets running the East. You can enter the museum with the purchase of a general admission ticket to see Teufelsberg. I visited a few months before this exhibition opened, but from what I’ve read, it seems quite fascinating.
In October 2024, Teufelsberg unveiled a new museum that is included with your entry ticket. “Declassified – The Secret of Teufelsberg,” dives into how the site became a key spying location during the Cold War and examines how espionage conducted from Teufelsberg changed the course of the 20th century. This exhibition hadn’t opened either when I visited, but it looks like a worthwhile stop, too.
Getting To Teufelsberg
To get to Teufelsberg from downtown Berlin, take the S7 S-Bahn train to Grunewald station. The easiest way to see your train route and buy tickets is to download the “DB Navigator” app and plug in your starting point and final destination. When you get to Grunewald, go under the road from the station via the tunnel, which will drop you off near Schmetterlingsplatz/Parkplatz Grunewald. From here, there is a walking path through the forest that you will follow. This path splits at one point; to the right, there is a road, and to the left, the path banks left and takes you through a really cool tiny-home community with beautiful gardens and a unique eco-friendly way of living. (If you’re using the Google Map linked at the top of this article, follow the dotted lin
e that takes you from Parkplatz Grunewald to the point labeled “Gartenverein Grunewald”. This will get you onto a path called “Neuer Schildhornweg”.) I enjoyed wandering through this area, but you will save a little time by taking the more direct road to the east toward Teufelsberg. Eventually, you’ll reach a street named “Teufelseechaussee”, which runs perpendicular to the paths. There are many trails that you can hop on once you cross Teufelseechaussee, all of which connect in various ways to Teufelsberg’s entrance. The whole walk will take you around 30 minutes and is slightly uphill – I recommend bringing a water bottle and wearing comfortable athletic shoes.
Admission, Amenities, and Other Things To Know
When you arrive, you will have to buy a ticket at a window or show proof of online purchase. It costs €12 for adults to enter, €5 for youths ages 8 - 17, and is free for kids 7 and under. Teufelsberg accepts both cash and card for payment. (Side note: I found Germany to be surprisingly cash-centric. It’s wise to always have some Euros on you in Berlin, especially for food.)
For an added fee, there are different guided tours available, with specific focuses on the street art, the history of Teufelsberg, and an after-dark flashlight tour. It is recommended to register online for tours to ensure a spot, but walk-ups can be accommodated if spaces remain. If you’re curious about the art pieces but can’t make a tour, Teufelsberg’s website has a blog in which some of the artists share more about their work.
Teufelsberg has a small snack and drink stand which opens at noon in an outdoor courtyard that you pass on your way in from the ticket window. While I visited on a not at all crowded weekday, there were still a few people sitting at picnic tables in the sun enjoying beers and chatting. According to their website, Teufelsberg has a coffee bar on weekend afternoons and a mix of food trucks on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays.
Teufelsberg is typically open from 11 AM until 9:30 PM, with last admission at 8:30 PM. Dogs are allowed on leashes, but keep an eye on where they’re walking and what they’re sniffing, as there is exposed debris from the war that still pokes through the dirt in some places.
On the first Saturday of each month from April through September, Teufelsberg hosts DJs in the courtyard area as part of “Beatgarden Open Air”. The vibe would best be described as a toned-down rave with house-style EDM music being mixed. (As a whole, Berlin is known for having an eclectic and hedonistic party scene in its many techno clubs.)
Lastly, to answer the question that everyone wonders, “Can I spray paint my own artwork at Teufelsberg?”, the answer is: not without permission. All aspiring artists have to apply to paint on the grounds, which starts by emailing gallery@teufelsberg-berlin.de. Teufelsberg is now a protected gallery, and people who add their own artwork without permission can face punishments in accordance with local German laws.
Final Takeaways
Knowledge of Teufelsberg hasn’t yet reached the masses of tourists that visit Berlin every year, making it a hidden gem of the city. While sometimes a bit edgy, the art at this place is among the best I’ve ever seen, and the lore rooted in the site’s history only enhances its mystique. I would budget a minimum of two hours to explore Teufelsberg’s murals, buildings, and forest artworks. If you want to check out the new museums and enjoy food and drinks in the courtyard, plan to stay for around four hours.
Other Things To Do Near Teufelsberg
Olympiapark Berlin – Centered around the massive Olympiastadion Berlin, Olympiapark rose to fame in 1936 when Germany hosted the Summer Olympics under Hitler’s rule. To the chagrin of the Nazis, American track and field star Jesse Owens famously won four gold medals at the games. Now, this area hosts concerts and various sporting events, with Olympiastadion serving as the home of Hertha BSC, a club in the high-performing Bundesliga (Germany’s soccer league).
Teufelssee – This relatively small lake is perfect for a relaxing afternoon of swimming. Located just over half a mile (about 0.8 km) from Teufelsberg, you can walk there in less than 15 minutes. Be aware that nudity is allowed here, especially if you’re traveling with kids.
Havel River / Grunewald Tower / Wannsee Beach – Enjoy a day outdoors along the Havel River, just west of Teufelsberg. After checking out the view from Grunewald Tower’s viewing platform, walk or bike down to Wannsee Beach to tan or swim. You can follow the path called “Havelchaussee” past beaches and marinas on one side and the Grunewald Forest on the other. If you’re in Wannsee, you may also consider visiting the House of the Wannsee Conference, which is where the Nazis decided on the “Final Solution to the Jewish Question” in 1942.
Potsdam – As capital of the German state of Brandenburg, the city of Potsdam is both beautiful and historically important. The Potsdam Conference in 1945 hosted the leaders of the Allied Powers, who determined that Germany would be divided into four occupation zones after their defeat and that Japan had to surrender unconditionally. To get there from Teufelsberg, ride the S7 train from Grunewald Station to Potsdam Hbf, which takes a little less than 20 minutes. Potsdam is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it is one of the places I regret not visiting most during my European backpacking trip.
Charlottenburg Palace – Just a few miles from Grunewald Forest, Charlottenberg Palace was a sensational home for Prussian royalty after it opened in 1699. It’s known for its massive scale, lavish interior, and ornate gardens. You’ll need to purchase a ticket to explore the inside of the complex, but you can walk around the exterior and gardens for free. There are multiple buses and trains with stops near Teufelsberg that will get you close to Charlottenburg Palace.
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